Rail Line HOn3 D&RGW Idler Flat
Kit number 131
Steps B - D are optional, if you desire using the railroad track as reinforcement for heavy loads.
Trim the details from the side rails flush.
There are a couple options here. The instructions show cutting short pieces of board which lay perpendicular to the rail. My feeling on this is such small boards would rot out quickly and need frequent replacement, therefore I opted to run long boards down the full length of the car.
If you want to leave the rails unpainted, don't mount them until after step 6.
The nuts on the corner blocks go towards the top.
Do NOT glue the stirrup steps in place yet, wait until after you complete step 5.
The 'B' end of the car does not have nuts on the right side near the coupler housing.
An angled slice works just as well here.
Postion the queen blocks in line with the inside planks.
The raised portion of the queen blocks goes on the same side as the missing nuts from 2A.
Position straps so that the pushrod from the cylinder will be about half way through the queen post.
Carefull use tweezers to work the pushrod through the queen post (twist the cylinder 45° so the pushrod goes through at an angle).
Glue the brake cylinder down to the straps.
Assemble two pieces
then glue in place.
There are two sizes of staples in the kit. This support uses the smaller width.
Glue the lever in place between the mounting straps, then use CA glue to attach the level to the staple (lever support).
You should perform the assembly of the lever in 4A now, before proceeding to section 3.
I glued the line in place as I finished each pass, holding it tight while the AC dried in the hole, then touching the points on both queen posts to hold it in place.
After I finished all four lines, I placed the turnbuckles randomly off-center and glued them in position.
By the time I finished trimming the line, two of the four stirrups had broken off, and the last two were hanging by a thread.
I took off all four and drilled holes in prep for adding metal stirrups.
The end of the rod with three holes connects to the brake cylinder.
Positioning of the supports is not critical
but you should place them where they don't cover the holes in the lever.
If you want to add brake rod detail, get the wire in place before gluing the lever.
Use a #78 drill for the U-bolts.
Re-drill each support strap with a #78 bit. The two pieces of wire are not long enough to make all 10 U-bolts, so use some of the extra grab irons to make more. Remember to leave a small length of wire for the hand brake.
Leave a little of the U-bolt sticking through so it looks like the bolt is longer than the straps.
The shorter grab-irons go on the ends. The longer ones go on the sides.
Note this is also a good time to add metal stirrups.
I mounted this so the cone-shaped end is facing downwards.
If using Kadee #714 couplers, you may consider
drilling and tapping the pocket for a 0-80 screw
" in length. This allows removing the couplers while painting.
Don't forget to drill out the hole for the coupler pin.
Do step H before step G.
Length of brake mast should be between
Note the position of brake mast step and upper hanger.
This should go towards the outside of the brake mast,
which leaves plenty of clearance for the truck.