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The headstock - it holds together the most abused portions of the drive train. The
rigidity of your faceplate or chuck will depend on how well this piece is made.
The first question you need to ask is will you be using bronze bushings or bearings
to support your spindle? If you are building per Gingery's plans, then bushings are
easily available at the hardware store. In my case, I opted for a larger, hollow
spindle. I used a piece of CRS pipe, 1" O.D. and 5/8" I.D. This will allow me to
work with some fairly large threaded rod. Of course I would then need to special-order
the bushings. I found the solution at the auto-parts store. Standard trailer bearings
which have a 1" I.D. and have a tapered outer race. The taper allows for sideways thrust,
which will be generated during facing operations on the lathe.
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Here is the completed spindle. The faceplate has been press-fit into place. I will probably
need to pin it to the spindle at some point. The back side of the faceplate does double-duty
as a thrust plate for the first bearing.
From left to right, we have the bearing race, the retaining washer, one of the topcaps, and
the mounting bolts for the topcap.
The original plan was to simply cast under-sized holes in the headstock, then bore then to size
for the outer bearing race to slide in to. I planned to only bore part way through the topcaps
so there would be a shoulder that the races would seat against. If I had bored my headstock the
Gingery way, this would have been easy, but alas when you have a high quality end-mill at your
disposal, plans change...
In the full size picture you can see a track cut into the bearing surface of the topcap. This
required a hand-ground bit and a lot of patience to cut out. The end result, however, is that
I now have a slot that the retaining washer sits in and assures that the topcaps auto-aligns
itself during reassembly. The washer also provides a seat for the bearing race to push against.
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In this closeup, you can see how the bearing race simply slides up against the retaining washer.
The washer itself was literally an old washer in the shop that was turned down on a lathe to fit
into the cap slots, and the inside was opened up to provide clearance for the bearing.
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