Building a lathe from scratch
Progress as of February 15, 2004

The drive train. You have to get power from your motor to your chuck, and you need to do it so there is little or no slippage. I decided to use springs to keep a constant tension on the belts.
This isn't a very clear shot, but was intended to show the first belt from the motor to the secondary shaft. Note the idler wheel just above the motor pulley. This is mounted to a long arm which swings around the motor pulley. Tension from a spring pushes the belt further around the motor pulley and helps give it more traction. Note that the large pulley on the secondary shaft is too small. This is about a 4" pulley, and I need a 6" to get the proper step-down in speed.
This is a close-up of the idler wheel. It was made with a pair of regular ball-bearings I picked up at the hardware store. These are slide onto a bolt facing each other, so the outer lip of the bearings creates a track that the belt can ride in. I used washers for spacing, and bolted the assembly directly to the swing-arm.
Here's a top view of the second belt and step-pulleys. The framework holding the secondary shaft bushings is 1" angle-iron with a bolt on the bottom of each side allowing for the frame to swing. There is a piece of 1/2" solid square welded to the angle-iron, just above the motor. This keeps both sides aligned. There is a spring attached to the left bracket and running down and to the back of the framework. This keeps a constant pressure on the belt.
When the secondary shaft framework is pulled forward, the belt can easily be moved between steps. As you may have noticed, my step pulleys are not equal in size, so moving the belt between settings causes a small difference in how far back the secondary shaft sits when tight. This alone was the reason for spring-loading the framework originally, but it's so convenient to use this way that I see no reason to use Gingery's original locking setup. Once I get a wooden pull-handle bolted to the frame, it will be just as easy to change the belt position.
One more view from the back side.

Additional Notes:

Feb 19, 2004
Stopped by Ecocycle today. Located a washing machine with a belt drive. It had a 6" pulley which came off easily. I had to modify my secondary shaft by grinding a flat on both sides, but was able to tap the pulley onto the shaft. Swapped out the motor pulley for a 2.5" and it now appears I have about the right final speed at the chuck. Actually it's going a little slow, due to the size difference between my step pullies, but it's much closer now than previously. Also noted that the change in pullies required a change in belts. Coincidentally, both belts are now 26". I don't think I could have planned that if I tried.